Uniworld are one of only two river cruise lines currently sailing cruises through the Venetian Lagoon. The other one is Croisi Europe with their ship ‘Michelangelo’ which sailed past us on disembarkation day from our 7-night ‘Venice and The Jewels of Veneto’ cruise.

In 2021, ships larger than 25,000 tonnes were banned from docking in the Lagoon, due to UNESCO and other environmental concerns. This limited entry to Venice’s historic and iconic centre along the Guidecca Canal, to small passenger ferries, freight vessels and river cruise ships. As a result, river cruising in the area offers a unique perspective of maritime Venice.

Our itinerary on Uniworld’s ‘SS La Venezia’ started at San Basilio Port 31, just along from the former main cruise terminal where its travellator from the main station (Venice Santa Lucia) and Piazzale Roma now stands idle. Until the (industrial) Port of Marghera is totally revamped for passengers, many cruise ships are forced to dock at Ravenna (200 km), Trieste (150 km) or Chioggia (50 km) and bus guests into Venice for excursions. The only ships to moor up close to us during the week were ‘Royal Clipper’, Ponant’s ‘Le Lyreal’ and ‘Sea Cloud’.

We sailed on the 126-guest capacity ‘SS La Venezia’. There were 94 guests (and 44 crew) on our sailing. Don’t forget there are very few 4* (even less 5*) hotels in Venice as so few have lifts – something that our 5* ship does have! The ship was renovated in 2020, completing its transformation from ‘River Countess’. As with all Uniworld ships the décor is influenced by and reflects the area where it sails. Consequently, the ship is decorated with Fortuny fabrics and Murano glass and gilded accents, seen in the glass fans on Hari’s Bar, the Venetian masks in the Lounge and the typical Venetian light fittings on the corridors. It has an early 20th century Venetian vibe to it and welcomes guests with a black Venetian mask, painted on the bow. On board there are 2 Grand Suites (approx 308 sq ft) and 4 Suites (approx. 220 sq ft) which are served by a Butler. Suites are on deck 4 along with 14 French balconies (approx. 154 sq ft). 36 Deluxe cabins (picture window, approx. 154 sq ft) and 7 Classic cabins (river view window, approx 154 sq ft) are on decks 1 -3. They are arranged on a half ship length, mezzanine style with Deluxe cabins on deck 2 sitting nearer the water line than those on deck 3.  Cabins on decks 1 and 2 have limited views, especially when docked. On average, cabins are smaller than the industry standard, a perception enhanced a bit by the size of the windows and the fixed curtains, which reduces the amount of light coming into the cabin. However, the scope of the shore excursions, the amount of scenic cruising and the pleasant public areas means that you spend very little time in your cabin. There are Asprey toiletries in the cabin and a TV offering 42 channels and over 80 movies, should you wish to watch something late into the night.

On a warm sunny embarkation day in August one of the most popular areas on the ship is the Sun deck with its mesmerising scene of the busy river traffic on the Guidecca Canal: from public water buses (vaporetti) to ferry boats (car and passenger ferries), pleasure craft to the iconic water taxi (motoscafo), with its beautiful lines, iconic style and rich wood effects. We were moored opposite the G Stukey Hotel (the Venice Hilton with its own vaporetti stop) and the Fortuny Factory and Showroom (responsible for the fabric used on board, including on the walls, in lieu of wallpaper). Looking further out of the Lagoon you could just see the larger ocean cruise ships docked in Marghera.

We sailed down the Guidecca Canal and moored on the far side of St Marks Square, at Riva Sette Martiri, arriving in time for dinner in the Rialto’s Restaurant on board. In Venice, with 118 islands, distances are measured by the number of bridges crossed (there are 400 in all), so the next morning we left early for our private viewing of the Palazzo Ducale (Doges Palace) by crossing 9 (or so) bridges. There are an increasing number of bridges that have ramps to help people travelling with different sorts of wheels. The Palace is a great example of Gothic architecture, dating from the 14th & 15th centuries, resplendent with pointed arches, highly decorated stonework and lace effect windows. It housed not only the Doge’s apartments, the seat of the government and the city’s courtrooms, but also a jail. In the 16th century this was relocated to a new location, linked by the Bridge of Sighs. The name of the bridge was supposed to refer to the sighs of prisoners who, passing from the courtroom to the cell in which they would serve their sentence, took a last look at freedom through the small windows of the bridge. The Doge’s Palace was the heart of political life and public administration of the Venetian Republic, until its fall in 1797, with the buildings ultimately becoming the museum it is today. The many institutional chambers, gold mosaic staircases, marble floors, Verona marble façade and extravagant paintings are testimony to the immutability of the political and social system in place in Venice for so many years. Doges (sometimes called Dukes) were elected for life by the Venetian nobility. It was not an inherited title. The position referred to the most senior elected officials of the state, usually elected in pairs. Whilst they were rarely sacked from office, Doges were usually elderly, so that their position was not one of great longevity.

By the time we left the Palace large queues had built up for entry – the exclusivity of our visit to this and other places of interest on this cruise is one of Uniworld’s unique selling points. We were to return later in the day to the Piazza San Marco and St Marks Basilica and to the island of Torcello during the week.

Our guide also led us back to the ship through the winding back streets of Venice, passed the Arsenale (a complex of former shipyards and armouries) and through residential areas, in which we would undoubtedly have got lost by ourselves.

Lunch awaited us on board – an incredibly wide selection offered daily and including: soup (a sweet onion soup was particularly nice), salads, antipasti, a hot carvery, fish dishes, at least two types of pasta, panini and cicchetti (our favourite was the ricotta and pesto flavour), as well as an extensive selection of desserts, including 3 flavours of made on board gelato (mango was a firm favourite). As with all Uniworld river cruises menus are created highlighting and using local ingredients. It was no surprise to find Riso Nero (black rice) on the menu one lunchtime, as the Veneto area is one of the most prolific risotto rice growing areas in Italy. Similarly, after our visit with the Executive Chef to the fish market by the Rialto Bridge on Saturday, we had a wonderful lunch of Spaghetti Vongole (fresh caught clams from the Venetian Lagoon) and Fritto Misto del Mare Adriatico (a fresh Adriatic seafood selection with parsley gremola). Another feature of Uniworld menus is the inclusion of dishes created by Bea Tollman. She is the wife of Stanley Tollman, the founder and chairman of The Travel Corporation, which owns Uniworld as well as brands including Red Carnation Hotels, Trafalgar Tours, and Insight Vacations. Her chicken soup (with baked chicken in a small puff pastry crescent) was a staple on the dinner menu every night and there was often a cheesecake from her repertoire on the lunch dessert table.  

Breakfast was also served buffet style but the soup station was replaced by porridge and the carvery became a 3 or 4 egg made to order omelette station with a choice of onion, tomato, pepper, mushroom, ham and cheese fillings. You could also order Eggs Benedict. There is a vast choice of cereals & Bircher muesli, cooked breakfast items, cold cuts with meats, cheeses and fish options, breakfast salad choices with hummus and dips, amazing breads, doughnuts, muffins, croissants, Danish pastries and pancakes, peanut butter, marmalade and preserves, yogurts and granolas, smoothies and wellness styled tonics, a selection of fruit juices, fresh, dried, tinned & stewed fruit, compotes, nuts and seeds.

Dinners on board ‘La Venezia’ were a culinary delight: there was always a choice of 3 starters, 2 soups, 4 main courses (including meat, fish and vegetarian options) and 3 desserts. Additionally, there was a cheese course and premium wines on offer at an additional charge. There was a daily Chefs Recommendation menu of four courses, a Wellbeing Treat menu of lower calorie dishes and plainer alternatives of 9oz sirloin steak, Uniworld chicken breast or Fillet of Norwegian salmon. There were too many standout dishes but amongst them were: Beef carpaccio, Mushroom Capucino (soup) with Chive Espuma, Carre di Agnello (herb crusted lamb rack), Pan Fried Filetto di Branzino (seabass) and tiramisu (as it originated in Venice). I have put lots more pictures of fabulous dishes on my Facebook album for this cruise.

Our second day offered the choice of a walking tour in Padua or a visit to Vicenza and the Teatro Olimpico. Both places are between 45 and 60 minutes from Venice, travelling by coach. I chose to visit the university town of Padua (Padova), 30 miles from Venice – where the 200,000 or so inhabitants include over 30% students. The University is one of the oldest in Italy, founded in 1222. It is now centred on the Palazzo Bo, but there are many faculties spread throughout the town and surrounding area. Galileo lectured here for 28 years and was reputedly paid his weight in gold to do so. In the inner courtyard there is the first of a two-part sculpture (L’Abiura di Galileo) commemorating the 800th anniversary of the University, in the shape of a large granite globe. Padua Old Town is built round a series of squares including Piazza del Erbe and Piazza Frutta, with a central covered marketplace. Unfortunately, we visited on The Feast of the Assumption which is a public holiday, so there were no markets on in the squares. It did however give the opportunity to gauge the true size of the squares and the full effect of the Palazzo della Ragione, formerly the town hall and Palace of Justice. It is 82m long and 27m wide and had one of the largest suspended courtrooms in Europe, back in the day. It is now a place for exhibitions and cultural events.

On the south side of Padua Old Town and a short walk away, is the Basilica di Sant’Antonio. It would have indeed been an imposing structure in the Middle Ages, with its four towers and six domes, especially on the walk to it, when there were no buildings between it and the centre of Padua. At that time it was a place of pilgrimage, with the marble and black Renaissance Chapel of St Anthony, containing his tomb. Traditionally pilgrims used to come and offer intercessions to St Anthony and today there are many photographs of people who are being remembered, with visitors able to place their hands on the green marble slab which covers the Saint's tomb and offer up their own prayer.  Although it was The Feast of the Assumption and there were church services going on, we were allowed to visit The Chapel of Relics: showcasing a theatrical setting for the Glory of Saint Anthony. It contains part of his jawbone with teeth, his larynx, some hair and part of his tongue. Against a background of choral music and community prayer from the nave it left quite a sacred impression.

Walking back into Old Padua we thought we deserved a stop at the famous Caffé Pedrocchi which has been at the centre of Padua coffee culture for nearly 200 years. Here we tried the famous Pedrocchi coffee: a shot of espresso topped with an emulsion of fresh cream and mint syrup, finished off with a sprinkling of cocoa. Served in a cappuccino size cup, etiquette deems that you drink the coffee through the minty cream. It was so delicious that we then tried the summer version – a cold espresso served in a martini shaped glass. This fell a bit short in terms of taste, as the cold coffee didn’t really melt the cream, so it all glooped together!

On the coach and back to ‘SS La Venezia’, lunch had been served on board for those guests choosing not to go on the excursions. However, we arrived back in plenty of time for afternoon tea. In addition to the three main meals served in the main dining room, The Panini Bar (aft of the lounge) is a quiet area with books and board games which serves snack type food items throughout the day: croissants in the morning from 6.30am, a choice of three paninis for lunch and afternoon tea (sandwiches, cakes and fruit) from 3pm.

In the afternoon we sailed north up the lagoon to our next stop - Mazzorbo, a small island linked by a bridge to Burano (famed for its lace work and multi coloured houses, painted to stand out in fog and direct its fishermen home). The journey was very interesting: the lagoon is crescent shaped and has a surface area of 212 sq miles. It is 15 km wide at its widest point. Only 8% of it is land with 15 large islands including Venice, Murano, Burano, Torcello, Mazzorbo, Chioggia, San Michele (the island used as a cemetery) and Guidecca. Uniworld are the only cruise line allowed to moor in Mazzorbo and although we arrived in the late afternoon, Burano was still full of visitors arriving by vaporetti from Venice. As a result, it was magical to get up early the next morning and walk into Burano as the sun rose and with no one else about. It was almost as if the pretty coloured houses were there for our sole benefit.

That day’s excursion (another Uniworld exclusive) was to Torcello. One of the oldest and at one time most populated islands of Venice with over 20,00 people- this has now dropped to just 16 residents. Only five minutes from Burano by vaporetti it is one of the most visited islands of Venice due to the presence of Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta (Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta) which is the oldest building in the Venetian Lagoon, founded in 639. It has a fascinating and remarkable interior with Venetian Byzantine mosaics, which we were asked not to photograph. The rest of the island is largely deserted with areas returning to the marshes. It is a tranquil walk from the boat dock to the Basilica along the canalside, passing along the way the famous restaurant ‘Locanda Cipriani’ a well-known haunt of Queen Elizabeth II, Winston Churchill, Ernest Hemingway and Sir Elton John.

On another day we sailed down to the south of the lagoon, past the fishing villages of the 11km long ribbon thin island of Pellestrina (separating the Lagoon from the Adriatic Sea), to Chioggia (pronounced Key -o-jer) and moored at The Harbor Isola Saloni.  Known as ‘Little Venice’ due to its canals and narrow streets (called calle), Chioggia is perhaps better known these days as a seaside resort with nice beaches and for The Torre dell’Orologio S. Andrea which is a Romanesque watchtower with the oldest working clock in the world. Topographically, Chioggia looks very much like someone’s chest with a wide road running down the middle, calle running across at 90 degrees like ribs and about 8 bridges as actual crossing points. From here we took a Bragozzo boat ride (an enclosed old fashioned fishing boat) into the lagoon to view traditional ways of fishing for clams and mussels. This part of the Lagoon is largely agricultural, attracting agrotourism and wineries. It is part of the 3rd largest wine growing region in Italy, accounting for 20% of all the wine produced and especially prosecco.

Not content with just using a ship as a floating hotel, we took two further boat rides during the week. The first was up the Po Delta to the Adriatic Sea. The Po is the longest river in Italy (approx. 650 km) and reaches the Adriatic Sea 50 km from Venice. The Delta is quite complex with at least 15 mouths, covers an area of approx. 150 sq miles and is 35 km wide at is widest point. Geographically, it is a young delta and was flooded only about 4 centuries ago. Due to the abundance of fish it is also an ornithologists delight with over 400 species of birds nesting here. We saw several varieties of heron and ducks, but sadly not the flamboyance of pink flamingos known to inhabit the area.

Perhaps my standout moment of the trip was the taxi ride up the Grand Canal early on Saturday morning in a private water taxi. It was reminiscent of Canaletto’s painting ‘The Entrance to The Grand Canal’ (currently in the Museum of Fine Arts Houston – MFAH). There was little water traffic at this time and the views were truly memorable and awe inspiring. We travelled up to the Rialto Bridge (probably the most famous bridge in Venice) to go to the daily food market there. Relatively early in the morning, what struck me most were the number of small boats being used to deliver goods to restaurants further up the canal. There were also a large number of gondoliers preparing for the day (€80 for 30 minutes gondola round trip for 1-5 passengers).

Despite there being excursions every day, there was also plenty of free time to explore on your own. We spent time exploring Venice searching out La Fenice (the Opera House), the site of a murder in Donna Leon’s book ‘Death at La Fenice’ and paid €22 for a bellini in Harry’s Bar. However, one of our most enjoyable jaunts was not far from the ship where a smart left turn, just over a bridge, led us into a quieter, more residential area of canals, narrow streets and small campos (actually squares, but translated as ‘field’), where cars were replaced by speed boats and tourist shops by bakeries, little supermarkets, restaurants and small cafes where a cappuccino was €1.50.

It was quite a full-on cruise with lots to see and do (we walked at least 13,000 steps a day).   But it was also nice to spend time on a very welcoming and friendly ship – The Lounge offered a peaceful haven to chill in, flick through a book or watch Venice life go by. It offered a seat whilst waiting for an excursion, lectures and destination briefings, pre-dinner drinks (with canapes upon occasion) and the venue for the Disco Fever 70’s (complete with costumes), a live band and soloist, both of which became a disco singalong, an Opera Evening and the Farewell Masquerade Gala (masks a must). The Sun deck had a good supply of seating for scenic sailing and a sheltered space at the front of the ship with tables, chairs and umbrellas. Waiter service for drinks was always excellent, but I did just wonder whether a small plunge pool might have added to the ambience?  Also, on the Sun deck with separate staircases from the Reception area was a third dining venue Cielo’s. It served pizza on several evenings during the cruise as well as acting as a venue for art classes.

There was a gift shop next to the gym on the lower deck which had a few cardio machines and weights, a Well-Being Coach (who led classes on deck on stretching, Chinese Qi Gon and chair yoga, as well as a gentle early morning walk round Mazzorbo), and bikes for excursions if required. Also on the lower deck was a 24/7 drinks area (Espresso Bar) that made lovely nighttime hot chocolate, a guest laundry, the Serenity River Spa and La Cantinetta (a private dining room with a small show kitchen, bookable for 5 course wine-paired dinners for up to 12 people. It costs €95 pp).

After a week of being cradled in the waters of the Venetian Lagoon and immersing ourselves in so many aspects of Venice, it really did feel that our 5* floating hotel ‘SS La Venezia’ offered and provided exceptional value and opportunity to discover everything Venetian. I would certainly be happy to repeat the experience.

See more photos and detail of my trip over on my Facebook page by clicking here.